Sunday 18 August 2013
Tuesday 29 January 2013
Wednesday 24 October 2012
Gum Bichromate
Gum
Bichromate
Brief
Overview
Gum
Bichromate is a unique 19th century
photographic printing process and it was also the first ever colour
photographic printing process. It is possible to print any colour you desire
and to print multiple layers to create a print with a large tonal range. Edward
Steichen's gum print the pond, moonlight is the most expensive
photographic print ever to sell at auction. It is suggested that the soft
painterly characteristic of gum is the result of the Steichen success.
How does Gum Bichromate work? It is very
simple: watercolour pigment is mixed into clear gum Arabic to give it colour.
Then the gum / pigment solution is mixed with a solution of sodium, potassium
or ammonium dichromate, the dichromate makes the mixture light sensitive. This
is then coated on a sheet of paper and left to dry in a dark place. The dry gum
Bichromate paper is covered with a negative image then exposure to UV light,
where the dichromate hardens the gum Arabic. The paper is placed in a still
bath of tap water. After a few minute the unexposed gum washes away and the
hardened exposed gum stay on the paper. After an hour in the water the paper
print is hung to dry. When the print is dry the gum is permanently harden to
the paper, if the prints is re washed water cannot re penetrate the hardened
gum on the print.
Ingredients
•
Acid free paper
•
2 Hake brushes
•
Shot glass
•
2 syringes
•
Sticky tape
•
Ruler
•
Normal paint brush
•
Pencil
Chemicals
•
Gum Arabic
•
25%Potassium Dichromate or 10%Ammonium Dichromate solution
•
Water colour pigment
Note:
Dichromate is very harmful to your health and is carcinogenic. It should be handled with care, always wear
gloves when using it wet or dry. If you mix it from a powdered state always
wear a dust mask. If you get it on your clothes remove them straight way and if
you get it on your skin wash it off.
Water
colour pigment
It is
possible to print using any water colour pigment you choose. Winsor and Newton
are the best pigments for gum printing but a cheaper brand is Art spectrums,
this works fine. I use the following pigments below:
Monotone
(B/W)
•
Lamp Black (PBk6)
3 Colours
•
Magenta (PV19)
•
Yellow (PY37)
•
Cyan (PB29)
4 Colours
•
Magenta (PV19)
•
Yellow (PY37)
•
Cyan (PB29)
•
Lamp Black (PBk6)
Paper Gelatin Sizing (Optional)
Sizing your paper with gelatin gives you a better surface to printing
on, it stops the paper from soaking up the emulsion and will produce more
contrast and a much sharper print. Sizing also allows you to wash the paper
multiple times without the paper breaking down.
Warning: Formaldehyde gives off harmful vapors, so when
handling it wear a gas mask and use it in a well ventilated area.
Ingredients
•
Acid free paper
•
Gelatin
•
Distilled Water
•
5% Formaldehyde
Note: Food
grade gelatin will work but photo grade gelatin is better. Formaldehyde
is reusable, the amount needed is just enough in a bath to cover the paper
completely.
Pre mix
gelatin:(3% gelatin mix) Heat up 1000ml of
distilled water to no more than 40c, Mix in 30g of gelatin and allow to sit
overnight or until the gelatin crystals have dissolved completely.
Step 1: Select the paper you would like to use. Thick paper handles better
than thin paper that can fold or rip when it is wet. The smoother the paper the
flatter and closer the negative will sit to the light
sensitive emulsion this will make the image sharper.
Step 2: Stretch the paper by placing it in a bath of hot tap water for
20-30mins, then hang out to dry.
Step 3: Reheat the gelatin mixture slowly in its container in a bath of hot
water (not boiling hot water) until the gelatin turns into a liquid state (
don't let the gelatin exceed 40c or it won't set again). Place the liquid
gelatin into a bath that is sitting in a bigger bath of hot water to keep the
gelatin warm. Now the gelatin is ready for sizing.
Step 4: Place the paper into the gelatin bath for 20-30mins.Then remove the
paper from the bath and squeegee the excess gelatin off the paper
then hang it out to dry.
Step 5: Place the dry gelatin coated paper into a bath of
5% formaldehyde for 20-30mins.
Step 6: Remove the paper from the formaldehyde and place into a running water
wash bath for 30-60mins
Then hang to out to
dry and when the paper is completely dry it is ready to use.
Pigment test
Before starting
printing, a pigment test is needed to check the density of the pigment to gum
Arabic ratio. First, select the paper you will be printing on, cut two small
strips of the paper to do your test on. Down one side write in pencil 1ml
through to 10ml, this will indicate the ratio of gum Arabic to pigment used in
the test. Write on the top of one of the strips 'wet pigment test' and the
other 'dry pigment test'. Then measure out 10mm of pigment in a shot glass, use
a rule to be as accurate as possible, this is just a starting measurement, you
may need more or less pigment. Take the shot glass of pigment and mix in 1ml of
gum Arabic using a normal paint brush, once the pigment and the gum is combined
brush a small stroke of the gum/pigment next to the 1ml on each of the dry and
wet pigment test strips. After that add another 1ml of gum Arabic to your
mixture, stir together and put a small stroke of gum /pigment next the 2ml
marks. Repeat until you reach 10mls. Let the pigment test dry and then put the
'wet pigment' test in a bath of tap water for 1hour. After an hour remove the
wet test and let it dry. The wet test indicates how much pigment will wash out
during the printing process and represents the unexposed, unhardened gum
arabic. The 'dry test' shows how dense the gum pigment will be when the gum is
exposed and hardened. What you are looking for on the wet and dry tests is a
slight visible stain on the wet test and a dense non transcendent mark on the
dry test because this will be your 'blacks' in the final image. See the test
below for example of what you are looking for.
Mix up a working stock solution of gum and pigment-
for example if your pigment test told you '1mm of pigment to 3ml of
gum Arabic', mix up 5 times more solute, making it '5mm of pigment to 15 ml of
gum Arabic'. The quantity of stock solution is up to you
Printing
Step 1: Tape the paper to
a work table so it cannot move during coating.
Step 2: Mark out film
position on the paper using a pencil, this will let you know where to coat the
solution on the paper. If you are doing multiple layers, register your negative
or negatives by pinning all 4 corners of the negative to you paper, this will
allow you to line up accurately the negative again for another coat or layer.
Step 3: mix 1 part
dichromate solution to 3 or 4 parts stock gum/pigment in a shot glass (only
make up what you need for one coat at a time). Coat paper with the Gum
Dichromate solution using a hake brush, use a second brush to smooth out or
remove any uneven Gum Dichromate solution. If you are doing a multilayer
monotone gum use a 1 dichromate to 1 or 2 parts gum/ pigment solution
Dichromate to gum/ pigment ratio
|
1 to 1
|
1 to 2
|
1 to 3
|
1 to 4
|
Layer type
|
Multi layer Monotone
|
Multi layer Monotone
|
Monotone
|
Single Layer
Monotone
|
contrast
|
low
|
high
|
low
|
high
|
Tonal range
|
long
|
short
|
long
|
short
|
Step 4: Dry the Gum
Dichromate solution by using a hairdryer or by placing it in a dark area until
dry.
Step 5: Tape down the negative over the dry Gum
Dichromate, If you are doing a second layer re-register the negative using the
pinholes. Once the negative is registered using the pins, then tape the
negative down and remove the pins.
Step 6: Expose Gum Dichromate in a UV unit under
a heavy piece of glass or in a contact frame in the sun. Do a test strip to
judge the exposure time.
Step 7: Then wash.
Wash
Bath 1: place the gum
print face down in a bath of tap water, do not touch the image because it will
rub off, ( 20mins)
Bath 2: place the gum
print face down in another bath of tap water, do not touch the image because it
will rub off ( 40mins)
Dry.
Once the print is dry the image will not come off if you touch it, now
it is ready for another layer if you are doing multiple layers
Multiple layers
Gum Bichromate is famous for its ability to do multiple layers, the
multiple layers allows you to make 3D images, mono tone images with large tonal
ranges and 3 colour and 4 colour
photographic prints. Always start with the lightest shade or coloured layer
first and end with the darkest. Below is a chart showing you how long each
layer needs to be exposed for in a multi layered print. All the print types
below should have the overall exposure time. So if you do a single monotone
print you can use the overall exposure time to judge the expose for any multi
layer gum print. For example: if the overall exposure time for a single layer
monotype is 1200 units in a UV unit a 4 colour gum would have a layer of yellow
at 300 unit, a magenta layer at 300 unit, a cyan layer at 300 units and a black
layer at 300 units making to total time your print spent in the UV unit was
1200 units.
Multiple layers
|
1st layer
|
2nd layer
|
3rd layer
|
4th layer
|
Overall Exposure time
|
Single layer Monotone
|
Colour
100%
|
100%
|
|||
Multi layer Monotone
|
Colour highlights
50%
|
Colour midtones
33.33%
|
Colour shadows
16.66%
|
100%
|
|
3 Colour Gum (RGB)
|
Yellow
33.33%
|
Magenta
33.33%
|
Cyan
33.33%
|
100%
|
|
4 Colour Gum (CMYK)
|
Yellow
25%
|
Magenta
25%
|
Cyan
25%
|
Black
25%
|
100%
|
3D Gum
|
Red
50%
|
Blue
50%
|
100%
|
||
3D Gum with Shadow layer
|
Red
33.33%
|
Blue
33.33%
|
Shadow
33.33%
|
100%
|
How to make a Digital Negatives
Monotone Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your image: open it in Photoshop
Convert to Black and White: Image / Mode/ Greyscale
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select
the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black
(image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Check
the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) /
use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the
lightest area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as
needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvas horizontal.(any text in the image
should read backwards)
Invert image to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit
Save as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on
acetate
3
Colour Gum Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your colour image: open it in Photoshop
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select
the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black
(image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Check
the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) /
use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the lightest
area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvas horizontal. (any text in the image
should read backwards)
Convert image to RGB colour file: image /mode /RGB colour.
Split colour channels: layer tool bar/ select the channels file / then to the right of the
channel file (and paths file) is a little square click the square/ split
channels
When the channel split they will make 3
separate black and white documents titled Red, Green and Blue. Rename the
layers - Red is Cyan, Green is Magenta and Blue is now Yellow. The renaming of
negatives corresponded to the pigment you will use for each gum layer.
Invert
each channel to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I
on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit
Save each channel as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on
acetate
4 Colour Gum
Negatives
Using Photoshop
Select your colour image: open it in Photoshop
Check the blacks are 100% black: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) / use cst to select
the darkest area on your image / use curves to make the darkest area 100% black
(image/ adjustment/ curves/ adjust the curves as needed/ok)
Check
the whites are 100% white: side tool/ drop tool/colour sampler tool (cst) /
use cst to select the lightest area on your image / use curves to make the
lightest area 0% white (image/ adjustment/ curves adjust the curves as
needed/ok)
Flip image horizontal: image/ image rotation/ flip canvus horizontal. (any text in the image
should read backwards)
Convert image to CMYK colour file: image /mode /CMYK colour.
Split colour channels: layer tool bar/ select the channels file / then to the right of the
channel file (and paths file) is a little square click the square/ split
channels
When the channel split they will make 4
separate black and white images titled Cyan, Magenta, Cyan and Black. The new
images corresponded to the pigment you will use for each gum layer.
Invert
each channel to a negative: Image/ adjustment/ invert or hold command and I
on the keyboard
Convert to 8bit file: Image/Mode/8 Bit
Save each channel as: Tiff for inkjet printers and PDF for laser jet printers
Print: Print on
acetate
Thursday 9 August 2012
Massive Uni Camera Project
So, look what James and I came across at Uni (!!!!)
Apparently this camera has been around the uni for 10 years and no one ever bothered to see what they could do with it. We have asked around the photography department and no one seems to even know how it got here. Its completely weird but completely amazing that we have the chance to use such a camera. Id say there are only a few of these sorts of cameras left in the world and even less in Australia.So we have started out basically, shooting paper negatives. The exposures were just over a minute- hence some of the blur, as it is so hard to keep still for this time. The three below (james, tobias and myself) are paper negs printed as positives in the darkroom.
The detail is amazing. We are so lucky that the lens is still in good condition.
Then over the weekend we just happened to be given some sheet film that fits the camera perfectly (got to love coincidences!) and we have started shooting with that- the cyanotype below was made from the sheet film- even more detail than the paper negs. The film is great as it only takes approx 30sec for an exposure.
(Sorry about the bad pictures, as the prints are so big we cant scan them- so i just used my hand held camera to get a snap shot. )
Cant wait to create some more, but the questions now is, what can we do with this camera??
Its so large and heavy that it cant really be moved from this spot, so some sort of still life/portrait work. The camera is set up for glass plates so this is also a possibility!
Very exciting work. But once again, nothing to do with my honours project...
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